Herr Mike in Deutschland

'O Zapft is!' is the Bavarian cry which declares the first barrel of Bergkirchweih beer has been tapped and the festival is open! Yesterday I headed to the festivities straight after work with Steffi and Sebastian from work to see what the fuss of the past year has been about and to drink beer which is rather strong and sold only in litre jugs. It was an experience to say the least.


The hill at to the north of Erlangen is normally the quietest part of what is a fairly sleepy town, but for two weeks all hell breaks loose as 'The Berg' beer fest takes place. The crowds of people that flock here are incredible, the streets are so rammed you have to shuffle along like a penguin to get anywhere. At the festival itself there is a fairground, lots of stalls selling food and sweets and a long row of beer cellars which stretch along the hillside. Deep underground is where the beer used to be stored to keep it cool before refridgeration and at each cellar door there is a bar. The hill is lined with benches and tables, thousands of them - in fact I have heard from several people that it is the largest beer garden in the world. As of lunchtime there is not a single seat to be had so people line the walkways, sit in trees and search desperately for space.


We were lucky that Steffi's sister and her boyfriend had gotten there early and saved some seats for us. I grabbed a 'Mass' - pronounced Maarse - of fest bier (A porcelain jug) and sat listening to the live music, chatting, and basking in the evening sun. It was really cosy and just how I had imagined a traditional festival to be - not like the over commercial Oktberfest. There were lots of families around; many use the festival as a point for a reunion each year.

We met up with some more colleagues and as the sun went down the party started, people dancing on the tables, all singing and prosting (saying cheers) and enjoying the atmosphere - it was great. The crowds were so huge we lost Sebastian and then Steffi headed home but I stayed a bit longer with people who I had just met, having great discussions about all kinds. That's typical of the Berg I hear, a really friendly togetherness. I headed home not too late and not too drunk (though there were plenty of people who'd had a litre too many strewn about the place) having had just the right amount of beer to relax and enter into the spirit of things. I will recuperate tonight and head up there again tomorrow, hopefully celebrating a win for FCN in the German cup final!!!